The Tag Heuer Carrera Dato Limited Edition for HODINKEE


We do it again with TAG Heuer
Our new collaboration with the Swiss brand revives an all-time classic: Jack Heuer’s innovative single dial chronograph with date from the 1960s, the second generation of Carrera Dato ref. 3147N. A limited edition of 250 watches, the TAG Heuer Carrera Dato Limited Edition for HODINKEE features a reworked version of the brand’s premium automatic Caliber Heuer 02 housed within the vintage-inspired 39mm “glassbox” case. Here’s why we love it.

Jack Heuer was a watchmaker hitmaker; a bootstrapper who guided his family business to profitability after taking over in 1962 at the age of 30. The designs produced by Heuer during his first decade at the helm of the brand are now considered some of the greatest triumphs in chronograph history. And if there is one collection that best exemplifies Heuer’s approach to watchmaking, it is the Carrera chronograph.

First released in 1963, the Carrera served as the building block for a new generation of Heuer wristwatches. Its rapid success provided the company with the financial foundation for further experiments in design and engineering, and in 1965, Heuer followed up with the inaugural Race with a dated feature. That watch was the ref. 3147; Not only was it the first Carrera with a calendar complication, it was also one of the first chronograph wristwatches to feature the now-standard rotating date display.

Nicknamed the “Data 45” for its combination of a 45-minute elapsed time at three o’clock and a date display, this new-age chronograph featured the same clean and compact case profile of the conventional Carrera with a lap of the basics. mark. You may recall that this is not the first time that we have relied on the original Data 45 for a limited edition collaborative with TAG Heuer: The 2017. Carrera Skipper Limited Edition for HODINKEE presented an almost identical single underreporting orientation. Working again with our colleagues at TAG Heuer, we wanted to bring back the watch that helped inspire one of our favorite projects, in the most authentic way possible.

Fifty-six years later, we believe that Dato’s carefree ’60s aesthetic is still as charming as ever. Always and forever an exercise in intelligibility in design, the new Carrera Dato features some minor updates to enhance that effect; We didn’t want to just reproduce the original watch with TAG Heuer, but also to move it forward.

Vintage chronographs from the 1960s have long been a point of interest for savvy watch enthusiasts, and some of the most desirable are Heuer’s black-brand models. An inked portal into the collector’s world, these models are typically distinguished by an N – for black – at the end of their reference numbers and share a bold, saturated aesthetic that stands out against the more conservative look of chronographs with silver and white dials.

Vintage chronographs from the 1960s have long been a point of interest for savvy watch enthusiasts, and some of the most desirable are Heuer’s black-brand models. An inked portal into the collector’s world, these models are typically distinguished by an N – for black – at the end of their reference numbers and share a bold, saturated aesthetic that stands out against the more conservative look of chronographs with silver and white dials.

You will find absolutely no fauxtine in the sphere of the new Carrera Dato. Its glowing black hue now purposely extends all the way to the chapter ring, enveloping the entire sphere in constant, compelling darkness.

Heuer vintage logo

Pump pushers

Date window at 9 o’clock

Matte black dial

30 minute check-in at 3 o’clock

Crown signed by Heuer

39 mm “glassbox”

Applied hour markers

Yes, the Carrera Dato is the rare antique watch in which collectors welcome with open arms the blink of a date window once a day. We would even go so far as to argue that the second-gen 3147N design seen here represents the ne plus ultra of complicated minimalism in watchmaking. When people say that vintage watches just look better than their modern counterparts, this is the perfect example of why.

Think of it this way: if a conventional chronograph is trying to bring you the novelty of measuring elapsed time, the Carrera Dato is designed to help you in your everyday life in the most practical way possible. Are you more likely to schedule something that takes less than 30 minutes, like grilling a steak, or will you track a full 12-hour experience?

A catalyst for a new generation of in-house watchmaking at TAG Heuer, the Caliber Heuer 02 is the brand’s latest and greatest chronograph achievement. It was developed in the 2010s from scratch by TAG Heuer, whose aim was to combine all the technical specifications one could wish for in a 21st century chronograph into a single flagship movement.

To recreate the unique dial design of the original Dato, TAG Heuer removed the typical six and nine o’clock secondary dials from the Caliber Heuer 02 and developed a new date disc with a new font. Otherwise, it starts with a fully integrated design that runs on 33 jewels, at 28,800 vph, with an impressive power reserve of up to 80 hours, all stored in a single barrel. The Caliber Heuer 02 uses a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism, a premium combination found in many of today’s best chronographs. Visible through a sapphire crystal display case back, the Caliber Heuer 02’s finish is simple yet attractive, with côtes de Genève on the main plate and an open, blackened rotor commemorating the brand’s recent 160th anniversary.

Our latest collaboration with TAG Heuer officially brings a favorite chronograph from the 1960s to life, highlighting the company’s rich history and full range of contemporary skills in the process. A limited edition of 250 numbered pieces priced at $ 7,250 each, the TAG Heuer Carrera Dato limited edition comes paired with a black alligator strap with a Heuer-signed folding clasp. Half of the 250-piece strip is available today with free worldwide delivery at the HODINKEE store, with the remainder available at TAG Heuer brand boutiques in the United States and Japan.

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