Raf and Miuccia’s Prada men’s clothing defended tactility and intimacy



“For me, the clothing game is a fantastic game,” said Miuccia Prada after the debut of Prada’s first menswear collection that she co-designed with Raf Simons. “You change the way people perceive you and also how you perceive yourself.”

And the mighty duo’s first menswear offering, which debuted via an online fashion show on Sunday, certainly gave Prada fans plenty to play with.

Focusing on our need, as human beings, for physical contact and our need to exchange and relate the collection was “about the tactility and physical feel that clothing can give you,” said Simons, who recently joined the Prada fold. less than a year.

Sensory stimulation thus came through leather, tweed boucle, jacquard fabrics and striped wool suits, as well as through the abstract and brightly hued interiors that the models walked through. These were designed by Rem Koolhaas and AMO and constructed from an unexpected mix of materials such as marble, resin, plaster, and synthetic leather that, after the show, Prada plans to renovate into pop-up and specialty product installations.

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The Prada show space for men AW21, designed by Rem Koolhaas

/ Prada )

“It is a space of warmth and touch,” explained Ms. Prada, “designed to feel both inside and out, and filled with feelings and humanity.”

This contrast from the inside out was felt in the clothing themselves, which threw the thermal overalls under the build, highlighting the current tensions between the real world and our lives on the inside. “It’s a collection connected to human feelings and related to our situation at the moment,” Simons said after the show.

In fact, these knit bodysuits, or Long Johns, as Simons called them, were worn with every look on the show and featured in a wide range of fabrics, from fine jacquard in classic Prada geometric prints to chunky mohair. . Second skins that emphasize the theme of comfort and isolation, these all-in-ones could be interpreted as childish or vaguely sexual, but, Simons said, “ [the Long John] it should not be taken literally. We don’t want it to be evaluated as a romper or Long John, but rather as an abstract idea of ​​the body and concealment, a representation of the body itself. ”

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Prada menswear AW21

/ Prada )

“If you want it sexy, it can be sexy, if you want it like pajamas, it can be like pajamas,” Ms Prada confirmed, noting the myriad styling possibilities presented by the garment. A geometric colorful thermal layer from Prada goes under everything and anything, and with the weather we’re having, it certainly sounds like a smart and sensible idea.

The silhouettes themselves were slim and essential structure, with tight pants and large, comfortable tops as a mainstay. “We wanted a calm in the form,” confirmed Simons. “We really don’t think it’s appropriate at this time to be too lush and show off.”

That said, a pair of leather gloves that came in a deep orange with a built-in card wallet would certainly be loud enough to get you some glances when tapping the tube.

After their last show, Simons and Ms. Prada held an online question and answer session that was open to all. This time they followed a similar format but opened the conversation exclusively to a selection of fashion, art, design, architecture and philosophy students from colleges and universities around the world. Not only was the intimate discussion a brilliant way to nurture and inspire the next generation of future creatives, but also, as Ms. Prada explained, “they can help us by asking tough questions that are uncomfortable and make us think.”

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Prada menswear AW21

/ Prada )

Self-reflection, change, and adaptability are something we’ve all had to learn in the last year, and obviously something Ms. Prada accepts, especially through her new collaboration with Simons.

“I hated stingrays all my life and this show is full of stingrays,” he said. “Sometimes it’s good to change your mind.”


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