Christian Siriano and Tom Ford have an unexpected mind-meld


Christian Siriano, at the end of “Project Runway” (first as a contestant, then as the lead patron in the reinforced series), has never been one of the star attractions of New York Fashion Week. His clothes, which ironically bite his nose in favor of a glamorous side, have always been a bit of celebrity Hollywood for the Wes Anderson affinity set.

But it has been a fashion season like no other, so it is perhaps fitting that Mr. Siriano may have had a coup of the week: the biggest, and most immoral, dressed, physical performance.

To do so, he wooed an almost 80s style set entirely out of New York City, not just outside Manhattan, and to his home in Westport, Conn., For a socially distorted runway in a backyard meadow. . , Full-blown lavender gin cocktail, with personalized picnic basket and taffeta.

Was everyone really so desperate for human connection and a live show that they traveled 90 minutes from the state to see it? Was it literal escapism? Or was something going on?

All of the above.

Every look, ranging from tiny plaid Saint-Tropez miniskirt-n-bra-top suits with ascot black sheets trumpets to sleeves and hem, and sleek flared trousers come with their own masks – given only the natural Mr. Siriano’s first. Among the New York designers were the pivots to make face masks during the early pandemic’s lack of personal protective equipment. Along the way he was one of the first designers to diversify in size and skin color on the runway.

This is the reality, although aside from a simple long black dress with a “vote”, it was all printed, moldy and imagined as the wedding cake layers of flamenco ruffles and tulle prevailed.

And it all ended in a pregnant Coco Rocha on top of a red turtle attached to a trailing Tafetta Flaws, who then jumped into the swimming pool in celebration. The attendees blinked an eyelid, and in the blink of an eye, as soon as she got out, the watery but laughed. He then shook his head and smiled through his mask.

Mr. Siriano is not pushing the boundaries. He is not that man and never will be. He does not reopen identity in clothes. But maybe he can change the mood.

Do you think this is no time for fashion or appearances, because life is too heavy, there is a place in the world too? Think again, stir, Mr. Siriano said. This is the time. Prosperity has a deep purpose.

And maybe he is right. In any case, he is not the only one.

“We need clothes that make us smile,” said Tom Ford, one of the few former star attractions who was part of the official calendar, in a video monologue’s cri de coeur. He talked about the “nightmare” of designing his latest collection, closing the sample room and hibernating the standard, and fashion for him, representing a promise of a better, happier time.

The result, posted as the Look Book of Still Photographs, was what it really was: a journey back in time to the 1970s style when it first made its name. It was all animal prints and flower splendor (for men and women) in slinky jerseys, tie-dye hostess Caftan and Fuchia Satin joggers. If they were not plowing new land at all – whoever remembers Mr. Ford’s early Gucci ovare, they would be completely familiar – they had a certain cheerful oomph.

As Hilary Temer’s “digital activation” was for Colina Strada: an infectiously engaging and seriously engaging film featuring tie-dye cornfields, floating coz, leaping frog, and dancing flower man produced by illustrator Sean-Kyre Leon Were. Models of many ages, sizes and physical abilities wore a brand of upcycled bodysuits, slip dresses and hoodies, mostly in Ms. Taymor’s fruit bowl colors. The occasional child also appeared. And pets.

Ms. Timur addressed the climate crisis and the role of fashion, making it the foundation of her label. Given the current state of natural disasters, it could have pervaded a collection of nihilism, but Ms. Timur chose to bathe in the sun; As the title stated, “The change is lovely.”

This is a peculiar adjective chosen for a time when everyone is thinking of historical import, but you know what is? When all was said and done, and whatever form, it seemed possible, for a moment, that it was.

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